Real Weather!

7 degrees celsius & it's what date? August 28th at the northernmost tip on the island of Newfoundland.  This is weather. Yes, indeed, there's nothing here for the sun-seekers or the warmth-needy.

The spray blows off the top of the waves. It's raining sideways & we're hard-pressed to stay on our feet! 

The Viking sod loghouse

The sod longhouse at L'Anse aux Meadows with its small fire provides a welcome haven. I did not know that the coming of the Vikings to Newfoundland was the completion of the circle of man's habitation of the earth. The circle that began eons before in Africa; a most fascinating story.

I am delighted to be reminded of the force & fury of the North Atlantic but after the walk around this historic site I cannot sustain my enthusiasm sufficiently to explore the Norstead replica of the Viking time in Newfoundland. 

Instead we head to the Norseman restaurant where we can watch the ocean pile upon the rocks while we enjoy yummy hot soup.

This picture doesn't do it justice!

They say the rain may stop tomorrow; no one makes any such guesses about the wind. After Norstead tomorrow, we'll explore St Anthony before beginning the southward journey back to Deer Lake.

It's hard to believe that we left Woody Point in 24C on Monday and walked barefoot on the sandy beach in Portland Creek. 

I tucked in this afternoon for a nap and it wasn't long before the rain beating a tattoo against the windows sent me over the edge .It was long overdue, that nap!

The dinner of crab legs we enjoyed last night at theNorthern Delight restaurant inGunners Cove  was only one of the many tempting items on the menu so back we went again tonight. I know you've been missing hearing about what I'm eating.

Judi said the fish and chips (homemade fries) were delicious and certainly a very large portion. My cod tongues were  crispy and scrumptious. 

Crisp cod tongues and homemade fries

 A clearing sky as we left the restaurant augurs well for tomorrow's visit to St. Anthony.

Into the Sunshine...

Burgeo Beach in the sunshine

Saturday sunshine as we left Ramea

This is more the weather I have come to expect when I return  to Newfoundland although the RDF  (rain, drizzle & fog) on the South Coast was both expected and welcome.
A beautiful sunny Sunday morning drive to stay with dear friends in Woody Point, Bonne Bay. After a yummy lunch of cod bites and Caesar salad, we drove  to Trout River. On one side of the road is the usual Newfoundland scrub forest and on the other, flat-topped mountains with reddish soil and rocks scattered  for miles and miles ... a most unusual sight and one so vast no photo could do it justice so you will have to come and see it for yourself. Woody Point and Trout River are at the entrance to Gros Morne National Park and this part of Newfoundland is yet another kind of rugged beauty.
 This morning Judi & I set off for Portland Creek en route to L'Anse aux Meadows (tomorrow). We stopped for lunch in Rocky harbour  and then again  at The Arches.Beautiful sandy beach as far as the eye could see.

The Arches near Cow Head

I honestly did not think I could miss a turn in Newfoundland but I underestimated my directional challenges and managed to miss the tun off to Portland Creek. We turned ourselves around about 6 kms on and arrived about when expected. This is a lovely spot. The dining room where we shall shortly eat more halibut (yum!) overlooks the beach and the ocean.

Looking back at L'Entente Cordiale B & B

We walked the beach this afternoon and admired the bravery of an Ontario man who was swimming. He said he figured the water temperature was about 65F. It didn't feel that warm to us as we paddled across a small inlet!

The Beach in Portland Creek

I have never been this far north on the Great Northern Peninsula so from here on, it's all new to me. I am looking forward to new beauty!

Soup for the Sailor's Soul!

Whew! That was quite the adventure! Picked up my friends in Deer Lake on Wednesday morning, drove to Burgeo (3 hours), then, on the coastal boat we headed under grey skies to Grey River. From there, 2 more hours to Francois.  Following  the very welcome dinner provide by our hosts, we walked this quaint community with its concrete roads (wide enough for an ATV; there are no other wheeled vehicles) and a well-constructed boardwalk throughout the community which perches on the side of a cliff.

Francois

 The next morning we clambered aboard the vessel for day 2 of our South Coast adventure. After 2 hours we headed into Macallum to drop off freight and pick up passengers and we rolled (literally) along to Hermitage. We had 2 hours ashore in Hermitage and were glad for the opportunity to walk and find lunch.
There's no soup like the soup you find in Newfoundland and this day's offering in Hermitage was turkey vegetable.. thick and chock full of veggies. The offering of the day before was pretty unbeatable ... it was rabbit (actually Arctic Hare... for me a big treat when I'm in Newfoundland), but the turkey soup was welcome warmth in my tummy which had been pretty well cork-screwed about in the 4 hours on rough seas. (I knew you'd want to know what I've been eating!)
I spent the first hour of the return journey outside tucked away from the spray but cold hands and wet gloves drove me inside for the rest of the journey back to Francois. Another hot meal, a shower and bed!
Yet another early rise to return to Burgeo with another stop in Grey River yesterday and in addition to the rough seas, we had rain & fog.

Waiting for the boat to dock...

Our ferry to Ramea from Burgeo did not leave until 5 p.m. so there was time for more tummy-warming soup (beef vegetable this time) and a visit to the unbelievably fabulous beach. Even the grey skies didn't dampen our awe at this incredible hidden treasure.

Looks calm, huh?

We didn't have a lot of time to investigate Ramea after our 1 hour rock 'n roll trip on yet another ferry . This place once had a thriving fish plant, closed now and we learned that many of the remaining 500 inhabitants go to Nova Scotia to pick apples in the fall or are involved with the tree farms, also in Nova Scotia.

Miles & miles of fine sand!

Sunshine and blue skies greeted us for the return trip to Ramea this morning and a wonderfully smooth sailing. We took the time for a sunny and warm walk along the beach in Burgeo... such a difference in the sunshine... and then headed back to Deer Lake, where my St John's companions headed for home and I sat down to wait my Hamilton ON friend for the next leg of this adventure and to bring you up to date on recent events. So there you have it... next leg takes us up the Great Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland to L'Anse aux Meadows.

A Corner Brook Walk

I am behind on writing about my travels. I discovered yesterday that typing while rocking and rolling on the Atlantic Ocean is not conducive to a calm stomach so I gave it up. Today we were on the water form 7 a.m. until 7 p.m. with 2 hours ashore in Hermitage... another day of no reporting but it was a grand day. Details soon...

As this vessel I'm on traversing Nfld's South Coast from Burgeo to Francois rock & rolls in the swells, It's hard to believe that just yesterday I walked the familiar streets of Corner Brook. Corner Brook has grown hugely since I last lived there nearly 60 years ago. It wouldn't take much for me to get lost if I ventured outside of the streets I knew so well back then.

There are still swans on Glynmill Inn pond. In fact the Glynmill Inn is still there, the outside little changed from my earliest memories.

Cobb Lane Hill

 I walked up the hill where we used to sled as children, moving to the side when cars came along. I'd always felt it was a good hill, steep enough to get up some speed before slowing to a gradual stop beside the pond.Perhaps you can see in the picture how very small the incline really is. Either the sleds had extra fast runners, we pushed off very hard or my memory is faulty. I fail to see how we could have attained the speeds I imagined! Never mind... we had fun!

My Nanny's House

Mentally naming the long-ago owners of the houses I passed, I continued my leisurely stroll in the sunshine.

Mrs Thistle

Then I spotted Mrs. Thistle sitting outside on her shady porch. She looked to be knitting. On a whim, I decided to stop & say hello.After I explained to her whose daughter I was, we settled in for a wee visit. At 96, she continues to resist her daughter's pleas to move to St Johns and live with her. With daily home help, she appears to be just fine and enjoying her independent life. She commented that her tom cat was up on the hill cavorting but he never failed to come home at night so she even has company! I don't see her moving to St. John's any time soon. You should have seen the socks she was knitting, Super fine wool and needles no bigger than toothpicks...beautiful work.

I was a little later than expected getting to my friends' house but oh my, the delay was so worth it. Mrs. Thistle made my day.

Moving Along...

Beside the highway...

Yesterday was a beautiful day for a drive even though the 5 hour drive from St John's to Grand Falls-Windsor is not my favourite. Perhaps I have driven it so many times, perhaps because the interior of this province with its many ponds and its dense, low-lying (relative to BC) evergreen forests,  becomes monotonous... whatever the reason, on the couple of occasions where the ocean was visible, it was  startlingly gorgeous!
The blue berries are ripe and I did see groups of people, buckets in hand, headed off to pick these tiny tasty treats. I had had some for dinner the night before and I can tell you that the  Newfoundland blueberry, though small by comparison to its commercially-grown counterpart, is vastly superior in flavour.
 I was astonished at the amount of traffic on the divided highway that runs to Whitbourne (about an hour west of St. John's). That, too, I'm guessing, is a sign of the growth and increased activity on  the Avalon peninsula. Once past Clarenville, the number of vehicles on the highway diminished noticeably, although there would never have been any concern that  a breakdown would leave you stranded in isolation for an extended period. I can remember when that would have been the case.
Grand Falls-Windsor was built in 1909 as a 'paper town'. English people came and built a paper mill and a town here on the banks of the Exploits River.

Grand Falls in the distance (left)

 It was planned to have the town look English by planting many trees and 100 years later we enjoy their foresight. This is a pretty little down which has sprawled out now but the original townsite is beautifully treed.

Lovely birch trees!

I enjoyed yesterday afternoon's stroll through familiar streets and past the house I lived in for 20+ years.

My home for 20+ years

An evening spent with old friends completed the day. The comfy bed at 1 Hill Road was most welcome.

A Slow Start...

I really tried to get this posted from the Halifax airport last evening but it just wasn't happening, so here I am on a sunny Saturday morning, back in St. John's...

If I don't soon start keeping you in the picture, I'll be back in Gibsons!

 Honestly, I flew to Halifax on Wednesday morning to visit my dear Auntie Paul and tonight I return to St. John's where the adventures will begin. She & I have had  wonderful visit with lots of laughs as we realize yet again how much we think alike... we, of course, think that's simply marvellous. The rest of the world? Probably not so much!

I did manage to have a chauffeured tour (on Tuesday) to some of the outlying areas of St. John's, places I haven't visited in years. Neil took the afternoon off and I just sat back and enjoyed being driven. Our first stop was Middle Cove, the place where the tiny silver fish we call capelin roll in earlier in the summer bringing the whales in hot pursuit!

 On this particular day the sooty-colored sand was peopled by families enjoying a day at the beach. I didn't see anyone in the water; I would have been shocked if I had. The North Atlantic never warms up!

Mid day beach fire???
From there it was along the coast a short distance to Flatrock and for the first time I saw where the name came from. Hope you can see it in the photo.

Very flat rock!

 Then to the Grotto also in Flatrock. The locals are very proud of the fact that this was the only stop the Pope made on his trip to Newfoundland in 1984 and I think it was the Papal flag I saw still flying there.

Half of the Grotto 

Pouch Cove was not much to see ( you won't hear me say that very often in Newfoundland!) so we turned back to the city where I was awed by the new buildings that have put down foundations just since my visit here last year. St John's is a 'boom town'. To me that seems wonderful for a city that is the capital of what was until very recently, a have-not province. Has this boom impacted the rest of the province in such a positive way? I think not. That I shall see for myself as I leave St. John's on Sunday and head for my old hometown of Grand Falls-Windsor.

The pale blue evening sky promises a pleasant flight back to St. John's this evening. That will be a fitting end to a great afternoon hanging out with my brother who drove to Halifax from Chester for a visit,  a yummy dinner and to get me to the airport.

 It's been a very social couple of days. I am happy, believe it or not,to sit with my mouth shut!

Whew!

A view of St John's, NL

I'm here.
Here in my beloved, sunny Newfoundland...yes, honest, it's warm and sunny and I know there are those of you who believe that Newfoundland is constantly shrouded in cold fog . Not so.
 Yesterday morning as I stepped out of St John's airport terminal, the breeze blew across my face. Ah, wind... I always forget when I'm away from here that the wind is a constant here in Canada's Far East, especially in St John's. Where I live now, in Gibsons, BC, we hang clothes on the line in the summer to 'bake dry', as  friend of mine once said. Yesterday it was what we, in Newfoundland would call "a good day on the clothes"...not so windy as to rip the clothespins away and enough of a breeze to ensure  that taking them off the line at the end of the day would be a sweet-smelling experience.
Later in the day as I walked in the heat, the St John's wind was a welcome companion, keeping me  acceptably warm, not stinkin' hot.
I'm still feeling a little travel-worn after a day of being sick, followed by nearly 24 hours of travel. I'll take it easy today with a little walkabout and then it's off to visit my dear auntie in Halifax tomorrow, just for a couple of days.
 Gypsy Butterfly is on the move again. Adventures from Newfoundland will follow over the next few weeks. Stay tuned!

This is it!